This trip began as a casual conversation in 2021 about what to do for Toby’s long service leave. Unusually for his workplace, it would later transpire, he wanted to take the leave rather than pay it out. But back then, Covid lockdowns were still occurring frequently. Victorians were a pariah to the rest of the country and were forbidden to leave the state. There was no point taking an extended leave if we couldn’t go anywhere. It was not until 2023 that the whole country returned to a level of normalcy that meant we could think about leaving and know we could come back.


As it turned out, 2023 was also the year Toby turned 50. ­­­­­For his birthday, he wanted to ride the Munda Biddi Trail and for his long service leave, drive across Australia and back. With barely a hint of sarcasm, Sarah deemed this year the Festival of Toby. The logistics of doing both at the same time proved too much and so the Trail came first. He completed it in July.


We then planned the drive across Australia (and back) for the December/January holiday period. For Toby, it was motivated by his desire to see the Nullarbor and all it entailed, and to investigate places in southern Australia where we could spend more time in the future. Early summer meant the weather should be more amenable and Griff and Augie would not miss too much school.


Little did we know…


Planning for the trip began in earnest around March 2023. Since we wanted to travel in a busy period, we needed to decide on what mode of transportation to use and book it early. Our car was not suitable to make the trip so after some discussion, we booked a Campervan through Britz. The we talked about places we wanted to see.


Having driven the Nullarbor a few times as a child in the 1980s, this was not a fond memory for Sarah. But then she heard there was now a golf course across it. She also wanted to see around Esperance and visit SA-based friends. Toby was keen to see the South Australian peninsulas and spend more time in the south-west of WA in warmer conditions than his bike ride allowed.


The kids seemed bemused by the whole idea.


After we advised Sarah's sister Liz about the journey and our plans, she quickly decided to meet us in Esperance for Christmas. The week-long booking at Lucky Bay in Cape Le Grand National Park formed the backbone of the eventual itinerary.


Next came planning the route. People we knew who made similar journeys all suggested to book everything in advance. This would take away uncertainty of where we were staying each night for the kids and stop arguments about where we were going to stay between the two of us.


This turned out to be excellent advice. We booked a few caravan parks to allow for charging the van and doing washing but intended to spend around 50 per cent of the trip bush camping.


After spending a few weekends planning the routes and booking sites, our thoughts turned to logistics. Sarah spent more time reading blogs and watching YouTube videos made by slightly unhinged #VanLifers. These turned out to be helpful for advising the use of packing cubes for clothes but grossly inadequate when it came to the reality of using caravan park laundry facilities to wash them. Another challenge was managing fresh food and state border crossings, particularly between South Australia and Western Australia. Eventually, we worked out the logistics of what food and clothing to take, what to do with the house, cat and chickens, who would tell the kids there won’t be regular WIFI; and other important arrangements.


The days leading up to departure were hectic. Toby, always responsible, did all the self-check-in, watched all the videos and probably prepared a set of flash cards to ensure he remembered everything we’re to do. There was some confusion about whether the van would have a BBQ that led to an ill-fated foray into charcoal barbecuing. Fortunately, on collection day, it turned out to have the gas BBQ we thought it had.


That day, we also had a crash course in learning how to drive the van, navigate roundabouts, parking, and remembering to lock cupboards, close vents and not let water bottles roll around. We also had to get used to the tiny fridge and completely inadequate freezer, the keyless start, and the very inferior satellite navigation system that refused to believe we didn’t have an e-tag to get ourselves home.


But eventually, on Friday, 8 December 2023 we left our lovely home and cat in Ashburton and set off.


(c) Words by Sarah Craze; Photos by Toby Tomlin, Sarah Craze