With the shower blocked and the campervan smelling a rank smell of rotting water, we make our way back to Port Lincoln to purchase unblocking supplies from Bunnings. What follows is a palaver of multiple plungers, chemicals, frustrating phone calls to Britz and the assistance of not one but two kindly plumbers.


After two hours of stuffing around we eventually get the grey water pipe unblocked and flowing. We celebrate by buying an oyster lunch at the famous Coffin Bay. Griff eats the oyster platter in around 90 seconds before announcing they are delicious but he’s still hungry. Augie – who hates all shellfish and a lot of other fish – wolfs down a burger and then has a nibble at the calamari. He then announces it passable and scoffs a fair portion of it while Toby and Sarah fight for the scraps.


The first thing we notice about Smoky Bay is that it is calm. Having been buffeted by strong winds for most of a week, this makes a very pleasant change. The second thing we notice is the giant dark grey bank of cloud in the distance. It is so dark that it is hard to discern where the water ends and the sky begins. Its also very humid, so we all cool off in the shallow waters.


As the storm comes closer, the wind picks up. Within a minute or two it is blowing ferociously and the entire campervan is shuddering. The rain is sporadic but overnight, the van shakes from the wind.