On the way to Port Lincoln, we stop in at Cowell. It has lots of limestone buildings and old people but in an effort to seem young and hip, Cowell has also built a waterpark, this time with two slides and a water play area.

The kids must try this one out so Toby and Sarah leave them to it and head off for a walk along the waterfront. There's obviously been money invested to make the place more appealing to fishers and families. The coffee is nice too.

Port Lincoln turns out to be a largish town reminiscent of Hobart, with its long curving bay. It's got a mix of old limestone houses and grand waterfront mansions built by a thriving seafood industry centred on everything from oysters to tuna.

We've promised the kids a congratulatory ice cream for surviving the first week of the trip. At the foreshore, the town has helpfully provided caravan parking near an ice-cream shop and opposite a beautiful bronze statue of Makybe Diva, a very successful racehorse that is one of only three we've actually heard of.

The National Park is a peninsula jutting out into the bay with a view over to the town. It's quite breezy and the beach rather shallow and weedy but it looks pretty from a distance.

The next morning, Griff is disappointed it's too windy to get the kayak out but we reassure him there will be plenty of time for that later. At least we hope so because at this point, we're just glad it's not raining yet. We drag them off for a pleasant bushwalk. In the afternoon, everyone plays contentedly at the shallow beach.

Then we discover the shower is backed up.